Дядя Ленин – Uncle Lenin

The largest square in Europe is located in Kharkov – Freedom Square. During the Orange Revolution it was packed with young people in orange, jumping, shouting and dancing at one end and on the other, old ladies in red who were trying desperately and not achieving success in counterbalancing the energy coming from the sea of citrus colored supporters. I walk through this square everyday on my way to work. Everyday I’m greeted by my good old friend, Uncle Lenin. That’s right V.I. still has a place in the hearts – or at least squares – of Ukrainians. A large statue placed on top of a huge granite block engraved full of proletarians marching to a better life stands at the far end of Freedom Square. His hand outstretched pointing to the golden future Communism promises. Of course nowadays his hand points to the public pay toilets.

Passing through the park area behind Lenin, I come to an extraordinary building. One of the first of the modernist style in the former USSR. What does that mean now? It’s rather weird looking and decrepit.

N.B. Modern Architecture – the buildings and building practices of the late 19th and the 20th centuries. Famous architects of the Modernist style include Charles Rennie Mackintosh whose influence can be seen throughout Glasgow, Scotland and Frank Lloyd Wright who pioneered modernism in America by designing houses with flowing interior spaces and projecting roofs. Notable structures include the Crystal Palace in London (which, for a time I lived only three stops away from its former location) and the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

What makes this building that once housed governmental departments and now offices of the New Russians, so unique is the building materials used in its construction - concrete and reinforced steel rods. So in effect it is a massive building, interestingly designed, with a dark grey color that matches the cloudy skies here and does not give off a friendly vibe. Last year the city of Kharkov celebrated its 350th anniversary of being a city (amazing how one relatively new city in Europe predates my government’s erection and even my family’s immigration). Since many a VIP was to come to Kharkov to share in the festivities this building got a bit of a face lift – literally. Now as you approach this marvel of modernism the façade that welcomes visitors is a slightly brighter shade of grey, not so imposing or somber as its original. However as you retreat farther underneath it’s high-flying bridge connecting two halves of the structure you find the remnants of its creation myth. The old dark and rather chilling grey of Soviet times. The contrast of a newly painted face hiding the hard truth of decay is a tribute still to the Potemkin villages of old.

But enough of that. You didn’t come to read about architecture and hypocrisy. Or maybe you did.

Coming Next time:

Ukraine Unraveled [I’m a big fan of alliteration, in case you didn’t notice]
Chapter 1 – Living with babushka
Chapter 2 – Walk around the city
Chapter 3 – 5 kilos of potatoes
Chapter 4 – Life as a teacher
Chapter 5 – Nikolai – encounter in the metro
Chapter 6 – Toilet Tales
Chapter 7 – Metro vs. Tube – Mind the Gap
Chapter 8 – Communing with Nature – or – Insect air stream
Chapter 9 – Kharkov: Denver with a metro